
This morning I was off to Carmel, California, a quaint little ocean-side city once "mayored" by Clint Eastwood--yes, for real. I began the day by visiting Ocean Street--a main business street that, as its name would suggest, dead-ends at the Pacific Ocean. The little specialty shops and inns were exceedingly well kept and intended for those with money--lots and lots of it! A few private homes also dotted the street. One quaint little home, nothing at all large or ostentatious, about the size of my Decatur house and a block from the ocean but with no ocean view, was for sale: the asking price was just under $6 million.
The Pacific Ocean beach front was really nice. The sun was out; the wind was blowing, and the surf was spectacular. The sand, a light brown color, was blowing rather intensely, creating brown haze about a foot thick just above the ground.
Next I went south on California Highway 1 for about a mile or so to Point Lobos State Reserve. I wondered if I should pay the $8 to visit the park or not. The map was an additional dollar. Having heard this park was worth seeing, I splurged. Dear god in heaven, I was not at all prepared for what I was about to experience.
If the value of my days were measured in pictures, and the most pictures I've ever taken on a single day was just over 600 (just a fews days ago on Christmas Day actually), would you think my taking 1,547 pictures today any indication of the stunning place Point Lobos is? Words are completely inadequate to describe what landscape artist Francis McComas said was "the greatest meeting of land and water in the world."
The Pacific Ocean was anything but pacified, having had a storm come ashore last night. The wind was cold and biting. I was glad to be wearing both my outdoor winter coat and my raincoat/windbreaker. The salt spray being blown up from the ocean was at times so intense it stung the skin, along with tiny flying pine needles. I left completely coated with salt spray. Several times I had to clean my glasses (fortunately I brought lens cleaner for my camera lenses) or I would have been completely unable to see. The car windshield was totally white with dried salt.
At times I was sheltered from the outrageous gusts of wind by the forest. But at one point, I decided not to cross a pass near a high and craggy ocean overlook as the wind was so intense I was unable to keep my balance. I feared I would lose my footing and plummet down the jagged headland to the turbulent and unforgiving ocean below. This reminded me of the peak at Dalsnibba, Norway, just worse.
The roar of wind through the trees combined with the raging surf crashing mercilessly against the irregular coastline were all but deafening--the handiwork of nature continuously fashioning new coves, islands, and caves. For a time, one of the coves was used for whaling in the 1800's. Apparently whales swim just a couple of miles offshore visible to the naked eye. Sea lions, birds, sea otters, seals, and deer are among the inhabitants of this area. I actually saw a sea lion and walked up onto a deer casually grazing in the forest. Interestingly, this state reserve was the first to protect all of the life within its boundaries, even in the sea, which is said to be the most spectacular diving area in the state, with enormous kelp and an abundance of other sea life.
But what I found most spectacular was the ocean violently exploding up against the rocky coast. Enormous waves, probably at least 30 feet in height, would rocket 100 feet skyward upon impact. I have never experienced anything more dramatic, mesmerizing, and powerful--sheer energy. A park ranger closed an area I was visiting. She said the tide was coming in and without warning giant waves would begin to actually breach the top of the rocks and drag anything on them back into the sea. I decided it was time for me to leave that area!
The Pacific Oceans loves me! It put on an extraordinarily spectacular display which can not be captured by any camera lens, but try I did, snapping over 1,500 pictures. This is the first time I've ever completely filled my 4 gig camera card and had to start on another. No California surfer dudes were riding any of these giants. I have no doubt that any such attempt here today would mean certain death.
Having grown up in Pensacola, Florida, on the Gulf coast, I have always loved the water. The Gulf of Mexico has always been a source of peace and strength to me. The Pacific Ocean here at Point Lobos is a tremendous display of power and significance, vastly surpassing that of the Gulf of Mexico. I hope it will be with me every day.
Toward the end of the day I hopped into the car and headed back up California Highway 1 to San Francisco. I have to catch an early morning flight back home. On the way I shot a few pictures of the sun setting over the Pacific near the lighthouse.
(Four of the pictures in this post have people in them and were chosen to show scale. Take the time to locate them so you can begin to get a sense of the scale of the waves and rocks.)
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